LONDON — Sarah Burton, creative director of the Alexander McQueen fashion house, tried to create an enchanted forest in the centre of London for the debut offering of the McQ line, aimed at younger, less affluent buyers.
The catwalk was covered with fallen leaves, and a realistic forest was created at one end of the hall at the Old Sorting Office in central London.
Leaves fell near the conclusion of the show, as if by magic, buffeting a model dressed in a long white gown, one that bore a slight resemblance to Burton’s most famous creation, the wedding gown worn last year by the former Kate Middleton when she married Prince William.
The setting was dramatic, but the new collection did little to break new ground. There were several striking dresses, and some impressive outfits set off by thigh-high lace-up boots, but there was not enough of the imaginative spark or striking workmanship that has made the McQueen label world famous.
Most of the models had strange, saucer-like hairstyles, giving them a space-age, inhuman feel, and many wore military-style coat dresses embellished with beading and embroidery. Long double-breasted trench coats added to the look.
A Scottish influence ran through the show, with some of the male models dressed in kilts. The show’s designers seemed determined, however, to make the men look as unnatural as possible, giving each a heavily pomaded, slicked down, layered hairstyle.
The McQ look seemed to please the crowd, which greeted Burton’s brief appearance with thunderous applause. She has been riding a crest since gaining the royal wedding assignment — by far the most coveted of the last year — and was named Britain’s designer of the year.
