A couple of years ago, one of the oldest and most revered port houses, Taylor Fladgate, released a remarkable and extremely rare Tawny port, named Scion.
Taylor Fladgate’s winemaker, David Guimaraens, became aware of this hidden treasure in 2008. Two casks containing the wine had been stored in a remote wine lodge as a treasured heirloom.
Over the generations, the family had steadfastly refused to part with it. Finally, the last surviving member died and the heirs, some of whom were not relatives, decided to sell.
Taylor Fladgate obtained samples and found that the wine was in perfect condition. Subsequently, it was decided to create an extremely limited edition for sale.
The Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation acquired, I believe, three bottles. I had the opportunity to taste a small sample a couple of weeks ago. My impressions of this extraordinary drop, priced at $3,495.99, headlead this week’s reviews.
READERS’ VIEWS SOUGHT
In the Jan. 12 column, I noted that the standard alcohol level for many reds these days is around 14.5 per cent (up from around 12.5 per cent in the past) and suggested that few foods can be paired effectively with their bold, dominating flavours. Excessive alcohol also deadens the palate more quickly, which further blunts your enjoyment of the experience.
I am carrying out an informal survey of this issue and would like to know your views, pro or con. Email me if you wish to express your opinion.
REVIEWS
Taylor Fladgate Scion Pre-Phylloxera Tawny Port (over 150 years old, released 2010, still available), $3,495.99, 750 ml (NSLC Port of Wines): Sicon is the colour of old mahogany, with an immensely complex bouquet that reveals coffee, treacle, mocha, dried yellow raisins, orange citrus, an array of spices and nutty overtones. It’s unctuously rich and smoothly textured on the palate, with flavours resembling a well-aged fruitcake, as well as sensations of milk chocolate and honey. The multifaceted package is completed by amazing acidity, leaving a lively impression on the extremely long finish. Notwithstanding its great age, this astonishing wine is, apparently, completely stable. If you are fortunate enough to have $3,500 to spare, you will not be disappointed.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Columbia Valley, Washington State, 15 per cent, $40.80 (NSLC Port of Wines): Selection from the fabled Washington vineyard, Cold Creek, this huge wine shows well-developed vinosity on the nose, highlighted by characteristic varietal black currant and backed up by blackberry and subtle spice. Attractively ripe fine dark fruit in the mouth, with blackberry richness taking centre stage in the thickly textured body. Firm dry tannins, piquant black currant and chocolate kick in on the long finish. Well-structured and sufficiently concentrated to handle the high alcohol. Drink now but will reward further cellaring.
Familia Gascon Bonarda 2010, Mendoza, Argentina, 13 per cent, $16.99 (NSLC Port of Wines selection): Argentina’s other special red grape, Bonarda, makes interesting wines. This one shows cherry, plum, herbal and spicy notes on the nose, with bright cherry, tart plum, as well as riper blackberry character and dark chocolate on the back palate. Lively acidity, dry tannins and mellow milk chocolate on the finish.
BARGAINS
Wolf Blass Red Label Shiraz Grenache 2010, Southeastern Australia, 13.5 per cent, $12.99 (NSLC — special price that ends this weekend): Lively fresh red fruit scents, notably raspberry with a dash of spice and a trace of mint. Succulent fresh fruit follows through on the palate with soft, rounded tannins and a judicious splash of milk chocolate. Delivers a lot for the price.
Note: The Blass Red Label Cab Merlot and Shiraz Cab are also on sale. All are reliable values.
Good value Particularly good value Exceptional value Sean Wood is a wine judge and writer.
